Day 4 - Reeth to Aysgarth

We set off early for the final day of our trek. This took us over the swing bridge over the Swale.

We soon had to locate the path in fields where the farmer had deliberately blocked styles and placed 1 tonne bolders against gates. This made it easier to simply go via the road. After a long slog up a 1:4 minor road, we came off onto moorland. We came across this amazing verdant green moss with a stream running through. Looked like a shot of the Amazon from space!

 However, we soon saw the sunshine turn to hailstones. I waited for Richard to catch up, and said, "shit weather" thinking Richard would complain, but he actually liked the weather. So on we went, happy.

We eventually descended to a bothy open to all. What an amazing refuge from the wind and rain.

We eventually descended to a beautiful village called Castle Bolton, with a castle! I am told Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned there. I couldn't go in because Rufus was only allowed in the car park!

Since poor Rufie was not allowed to roam the castle ramparts, we set off down into the valley to meet up with the Lower Falls of Aysgarth to complete my journey.

Here we are at last, back to the Lower Falls of Aysgarth. I was pleased they looked so much better from lower down the river. What a beautiful spot.

Rufus got a nice drink and a bath here.

Another view upstream

Richard said his family have a tradition when arriving at Aysgarth Falls, of seeing who can keep their bare feet in the rover the longest. He lasted about 5 seconds!

We soon made it back to the George and Dragon Pub to fully complete the circuit for me.

You may recall, I spoke of the rather low priced first night and my suspicion this would come back to bite me on the bum. Well, as I walked into the pub, I asked if my bag had arrived ahead of me. The landlord said, "Are you Mr Ramage? I'm afraid I have some bad news for you". I immediately thought he was going to say my bag had fallen off the van and been lost. Instead he said, "I am afraid my wife undercharged you by £40 because she got your booking confused with another person." I swiftly said it was no problem, and that I would settle up before I left. Richard felt I was too quick to agree to this, feigning no surprise, which indicated I knew all along I has underpaid. Well, that was true wasn't it?

I asked the Landlord if he could call a taxi to take us to Keld, now he was relieved he was getting his £40 back. He was rather miserable to be honest. he said, "well, I can ask, but I doubt anyone will want to take you"!! What?!! What is a taxi for then? He asked how much I was prepared to pay. Note, I didn't even need to go to Keld to pick up Richard's car. I was only going to accompany him. I said £20. He got his mate to agree, but he wanted £25 which Richard agreed to. That's good of him, since I was paying. I therefore got out of the taxi at Keld minus £65 from when I arrived at my final destination of Aysgarth a hour before!

However, a fantastic 4 days which I enjoyed, and the company was good too. I would definitely come back here again. Perhaps to do the Pennine Way in stages. After all, I have now done one stage already.

I got Richard to drop me off at Hardraw so Rufus could do some more toe licking, and my parents could pick me up, saving 15 miles off their journey.

The next day, the weather was great, so I did the lovely walk in the foothills of Pendle with Rufus. Here are some views from just a stones throw from my parents house!

Pendle Hill

Once again, thanks for coming along with me on my journey dear reader, and hope to see you again next year, or maybe even later this year if I can swing it!

Day 3 - Keld to Reeth

Today sees my brother Peter leaving and the arrival of Richard from Leeds. Unfortunately, they don't get to say hello to each other as Peter gets a taxi (make that a mini bus all to himself) back to Hardraw at 9am to pick up his car. Richard isn't due until 9.30.

There is a problem! I haven't told Richard where I am staying, and there is absolutely no phone reception in the village. therefore, I am waiting in the pissing rain in the hope he is not late, or I'll get soaked. Luckily, Richard arrives only 10 minutes late, complaining as usual! Why did I not pay for a breakfast for him! Well, I did order a packed lunch, so I'm not that thoughtless.

Now remember dear reader, Uncle Richard suggested I would be playing catch up over the next 2 days. Here we have the superhero who has conquered Kilimanjaro (OK, by the softy Coca Cola Route), climbed Mount Blanc, Cycled 2,400 miles the length of New Zealand, and climbed the 3 highest peaks in the UK in 22.5 hours. Impressed? Well not if you saw this wreck of a specimen. Mr "oh I've got a stress fracture" and "please don't let there be any hills today", and "Sit down, walking with you is like chasing Roger Bannister" and "hold up a minute, I've got something in my shoe", and "don't wait for me, I've got a blister", and "not another style, I can't lift my leg up high enough to climb over". I even packed a knee brace for him, but luckily, he had his own, and this came on within 1 hour of the start!

Enough bleating, we did have a good couple of days despite the moaning.

We set off about 10am and I was intent on climbing up high and walk over the tops. This was for 2 reasons. Firstly, because 2 years ago, I did this same stage on the C2C, but went low along the river to conserve energy. I hate doing the same route twice. Secondly , because there is some really interesting industrial architecture on this route, with the remains of the lead mining industry. Oh, and good views.

 We start with the inevitable water fall. it seems like this route is centred  around my waterfall fetish, whereas my Dalesway walk was all about bridges.

 

We soon got up high and started to see some of the remnants of industry that made for good photo shots of man versus nature.

I told Rufus there were rabbits!

This was a great shot, but Rufus got in as well!

We soon came to yet more waterfalls:

We stopped for an early lunch as Richard was starving from not having had his breakfast! Here we are on the tops looking out at a spectacular view.

After yet another diversion across moorland on a non existent path, I descended into a small valley to see this amazing sight.

The Victorians didn't care what the buildings function. it had to be beautiful! 

Richard happy we have got back on track.

We climbed back up to the tops and had a rest at another ruined smelting mill. We basked in the sun for a well earned break.

Then onto the last of the ruined smelting mills on today's route.

We then hit the road and climbed on and on to the top of the high point for the day. It was great to get off the road and head across the moor. We eventually dropped down to the river and followed the path into Reeth to arrive at the Pub for tonight's stay, and a welcome pint.

Day 2 Hardraw to Keld

Day 2 saw the arrival of my brother Peter just for this one stage. He arrived at 8am for breakfast at the Green Dragon. He was well impressed with the lovely pub and the roaring fire, lit just for us.

The landlady had huge feet, and walked around bare foot on the cold flagstones. Of course, as soon as Rufus saw exposed toes, he was off for a lick! She says, "I love the feel of a dog licking your toes. It's so therapeutic, but I hate humans touching my toes". What can I say? No comment!

My brother thinks I am useless at navigation from what he has read on my other blogs. Of course they are exaggerated for dramatic effect, and I am very confident I know where I am going. Anyway, Peter says I can stick my trecking sat.nav. up my ****ing arse! How rude! Anyway, we set off out of the pub for the Pennine Way, and Pete says he is going to trust me. We get 20 yards out of the pub, and I confess we are walking in the wrong direction!! Duh!

We turn around and are soon on the right track to the highest point on my walk, Great Shunner Fell at 2349 Feet. We are dressed for poor weather, but soon realise it is panning out to be another hot one.

Peter packing away his warm gear at start.

OK, so it looks cold, but the give away is the shirt sleeves. This was taken near the top of Shunner Fell.

Rufus was having a good time, but never walks in a straight line. Consequently, he kept falling up to his neck in filthy peat bogs.

Pete looking in disgust at his lordship's filthy state.

As we descended, the beautiful Swaledale came into view, bathed in sunshine.

Swaledale

Swaledale Again

We descended into a small hamlet called Thwaite, and had a gorgeous pint of Black Sheep outside in the sunshine. However, just as my brother was mentioning how lovely the weather was, we were pelted with hailstones!

We then set off on the final push to Keld, and rounded Kisdon, we were greeted with this spectacular view:

I promised I would wash Rufus off in the stream as we arrived in Keld, and this was what I found as I climbed down to the river bank!

We were staying at the famous Butt House in Keld. The original owners actually wrote the Accommodation Guide to the C2C. They sold to the previous owners of Keld Lodge, who were so kind to Rufus when he was struggling 2 years ago on the C2C walk I did.

Butt House.

Day 1 - Aysgarth to Hardraw

I arrive at The Green Dragon - Aysgarth at about 5pm. We had a lovely journey over from Great Harwood. It was raining on and off, but the countryside looks wonderful.

The pub is cosy, with a roaring fire and good beers. Once Mum and Dad depart, I take Rufus for a stroll down to the famous falls. I opt to go across the fields and reaqaint myself with how narrow the styles are in the Dales. You can only just fit your calf through, so Rufus has no chance. Good job I've got his "stylish coot" (Scottish C2C joke) to get him over the walls. It is lambing season, so the Sheep are very protective. On the way down to the falls, the first field had several sheep who squared up to Rufus and placed their foreheads to his head and usherd him to the exit. Then an ever increasing carcophony of bleating led to the final field where poor Rufie got a butt up the backside. He was confused, and had no idea why they were picking on him.

Here is the culprit with child. You can tell they are related because they have the same dumbo the elephant ears!

There was a beautiful churchyard on the way. A nice view, pity they are dead and can't appreciate it!

The pub I stayed in was fantastic with 4 AA stars. The room was like a hotel with beautiful bathroom and an office for me to work in! As usual I was banished to the backroom for breakfast as Billy Nomates again, but they treated us well. I had a really good meal the night before, plus beers and the breakfast and packed lunch, all added to my bill. I therefore expected a large invoice in the morning. However, as I leave The George and Dragon, she bills me £77 and then promptly removed £40 paid in advance as deposit. I am sure I don't remember doing this, but don't argue. Blimey, that's cheap, maybe she will realise the error on my return in 4 days time.......! (wait and see!) 

There are 3 seperate falls in Aysgarth, Lower, Middle and Upper. They were all in full speight and prettty impressive. I was to return via the Lower, and best falls in 4 days time, so will save that image for later. Here is a set of images of each fall seen on day one:

Upper Falls

Middle Falls

Lower Falls

Rufus admiring Lower Falls

I now set off on my first stage proper having diverted to see all 3 falls. As usual, the weather was glorious for me. This was due to be a easy stage with no assent and beautiful riverside walking. Rufus was getting bettr at the stepping stones than he was on the Dalesway:

Rufus crossing a stream expertly using the stepping stones

As I mentioned, this was a walk of waterfalls. We soon came across another beautiful one, Mill Gill Falls and only had to make a short detour to view it.

Despite it being boiling hot, there was still lots of snow on the ground. Really weird standing in snow and sweating away!

Only 20 minutes later, I stopped for my packed lunch in glorious boiling sunshine as I sunbathed and Rufus basked in the midday sun!

The last section to Hardraw had us marching through a series of tiny fields with sprung gates every 20 yards

 for about 2 miles. We must have squeezed  through 50 styles in this latter section. Good job I had been on a diet before we went.

Almost before I had started, we arrive at Hardraw - 13 very satisfying miles, with no aches and pains. We descended into the village.

The pub I was staying at, The green Dragon, was amazing. Full of nooks and crannies and flag stones throughout, with a roaring fire in each room. The beer was really good. We were placed in "The bunkhouse" to keep Rufus away from respectable  guests. This meant we had an entire annex to ourselves with 3 bedrooms and a bathroom. I spread out across all 3! All for the princely sum of £35 including breakfast! 

On the way to the start

Hello Dear Reader,

Rufus and I are off on another jaunt in the dales. We intend to complete the Herriot Way, 52 miles in a circuit around the Dales. We aim to stop off in the following places en route:

1. Aysgarth
2. Hardraw
3. Keld
4. Reeth
5. Aysgarth

I am being accompanied for the first time, which should be interesting. I will do the first stage alone, and then meet up with my brother Peter at The Green Dragon in Hardraw. We will then do the second stage from Hawes to Keld along the Pennine Way. I then meet up wth Richard from Leeds and do the final 2 stages. These will be from Keld to Reeth and then Reeth back to the start in Aysgarth. This should all be interesting logistically. My brother comes up in Mum's car from Great Harwood and then gets a taxi back to Hawes after we leave Keld. Then Richard turns up at Keld and leaves his car and sets off for Aysgarth. He then gets a taxi back to Keld to pick up his car.

Do you think this will all go of without a hitch?

Then there is the weather to contend with. Light showers are forecast. Hmm, I will believe they are light when I am in them. I expect deluge and bogs.

I will sign off until later when I am at my start point for tomorrow.